Brews, Booze & Bites in Kotor — What to Eat and Drink in Charming Cattaro

Brews, booze and bites! In no particular order, of course. Your guide to eating, drinking and drinking hot stuff to help deal with the after-effects of the aforementioned drinking. This week we’re in Kotor, gorgeous, gorgeous Kotor.

Hotel Vardar

Brews

Kotor’s old town is all narrow streets and fairytale discoveries, although the use of the word ‘fairytale’ there largely means ‘bars, cafes and restaurants’. Eating, sipping and boozing all over the shop. When it comes to cafes, you can’t beat somewhere that greets customers by telling them that there is no WiFi and there is no toilet. That alone makes O’Clock Coffee a gem, but the coffee also happens to be the best in all of Kotor. That’s right, all of Kotor. ALL OF IT. Saying that, Google is now telling me that this place has closed, so can anyone confirm that? Excellent, thank you.

If you are heading from the bus station to the old town, chances are that you are going to be a little overwhelmed by the time you arrive and see the masses of bodies at the gate. Best stop for coffee at Dojmi then, a modern breakfast and brew spot just outside the old town, with a large summer terrace and some excellent egg-based treats. Super stylish, this place.

Within the old town itself, nip to Forza Cafe for that ultimate Stari Grad cafe experience, or head to the Clock Tower and the nearby Hotel Vardar cafe for something a little classier.

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Booze

Sooner rather than later, craft beer is going to be all over Kotor and it is going to be fantastic. For the time being, Risan-brewed Fabrika rules the roost, with a selection of fantastic beers available in a few bars in Kotor. I drank a skinful of Smilin’ Goats at Gastro Pub 702 and had some excellent conversation at the same time, all with the option of solid pub grub to boot.

Letrika though, Letrika is awesome. A very artistic cafe that somehow manages to remain hidden away despite a central old town location, this is the one cafe in the old town that seems somewhat oblivious to where it is, and could easily slot into any street in Sarajevo, Belgrade, Zagreb and the rest. Mariner and Old Town Pub are another couple of beer-centric boozers in the old town, although neither are going to blow your socks off. If wine is your thing (and wine is the majority of Montenegro’s thing), consider Bokun.

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Bites

There are some seriously good restaurants in Kotor’s old town. Now, it isn’t as inexpensive as you’d like it to be, but remember where you are and remember where else you are likely to go, if travelling around Montenegro. Kotor is where you can splurge a bit, so head to somewhere like Scala Santa, relax and eat as much as humanly possible. The same applies to Galion, with a darling spot looking towards the Stari Grad.

When it comes to piles of grilled meat, Tanjga wins the day here, although good luck finding a seat. I absolutely love a butchers-slash-bistro, where you can point at your preferred cut of meat and eat it moments later. Aljoša i Saša in Banja Luka is one such magical spot, and Tanjga ticks that box in Kotor. Pržun is another traditional spot worth paying attention to, not just because of the food but also because it stocks Fabrika pivo, which neatly brings all of this to a close.

John Bills writes books about what was once Yugoslavia, tomes covering history, travel, booze and the rest. These magical pieces of literary competency can be purchased at this link, so get yourself over there and do the right thing. Pay attention to the discounts.

A Currency for the Cat cover

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